Ribeira dos Caldeirões Natural Park
A relaxing São Miguel park of waterfalls and old watermills, crowned by the Bride's Veil cascade, and best of all it's free to visit.
Bacalhôa Buddha Eden, the Buddha garden
Europe's largest oriental garden, born as a protest, where golden Buddhas and a terracotta army rest among vineyards near Lisbon.
The Furnas Lake Boilers
Where the earth boils and steams beside the lake, and the famous Furnas stew cooks slowly buried deep in volcanic ground.
The natural pools of Ponta da Ferraria
An open-air spa where volcanic springs warm the Atlantic, plus the tide tricks and tips you need before taking the plunge.
Visit Terra Nostra Park
A botanical oasis in Furnas with centuries of history and an iron-rich thermal pool worth every drop of its murky brown water.
Monte Brasil in Terceira, Azores
A tough but rewarding volcanic trail above Angra do Heroismo, with panoramic viewpoints, an old fortress and deer that greet you along the way.
Visit and have lunch in Caloura
A tiny Azorean fishing village where a clear-water natural pool and a table of fresh grilled fish make the quick stop absolutely worth it.
Parque Grená, a well-hidden paradise
A hidden São Miguel park of waterfalls and wild greenery, where more than 600 steps lead to the breathtaking Poço do Salto da Inglesa.
Conímbriga ruins
Wander the mosaics, baths and forum of one of Iberia's richest Roman sites and imagine the city that once thrived near Coimbra.
6 places to visit in Vila Franca do Campo
Six spots worth your time in this former Azorean capital, from the islet and viewpoints to those unforgettable Morgado cheesecakes.
Vila Franca do Campo islet
A volcanic crater in the sea shaped like a princess's ring, with a warm natural pool you can only visit between June and October.
Santuário do Sagrado Coração de Jesus
Perched atop Santa Luzia hill, this Sacré-Cœur-inspired sanctuary rewards visitors with sweeping views over Viana do Castelo.
Panoramic view of Detrelo da Malhada
A suspended viewpoint deep in Serra da Freita where, on a clear day, the Arouca GeoPark unfolds in every direction below you.
Lagoa do Fogo
Perhaps the most beautiful lagoon on São Miguel, cradled in a volcano crater and often veiled by fog. Here's how to catch it clear.
Montemor-o-Novo
A quick Alentejo lunch stop that surprised us: delicious tapas, a castle linked to Vasco da Gama and a lonely ancient menhir.
A visit to Arruda Pineapple Plantation
Inside a São Miguel greenhouse where pineapples take two years to grow, plus the tale of how this fruit replaced oranges in the Azores.
The fishing village of Rabo de Peixe
A quick stop in one of Europe's poorest parishes, proud of its roots, its Baroque church and the largest fishing port in the Azores.
A quick stop in Água de Pau
A tiny parish on São Miguel's south coast that most visitors skip, yet its hilltop chapel and sweeping viewpoint make it worth a detour.
8-day itinerary in Azores
My eight-day São Miguel itinerary, day by day, with the trick I used to catch the three main lagoons without a hint of fog.
Castelo de Paiva
A relaxed stop on the way to Arouca: sweeping river viewpoints, a quiet historic centre and a hearty, affordable lunch of roasted veal.
Holidays in Alentejo
A week road-tripping through the Alentejo, from Évora's historic streets to hilltop villages, great food and relentless summer heat.
Paiva Walkaways
A stunning riverside boardwalk near Porto that clears the mind, with gorgeous views, hidden beaches and far more stairs than I ever expected.
Summer holidays in Portugal
When COVID cancelled my big USA road trip, I swapped it for a summer rediscovering the beautiful country on my own doorstep.
Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra
Step into a fairy tale in Sintra: mysterious gardens, hidden tunnels and an initiation well straight out of a Harry Potter film.
Popular Saints festivities in Portugal
In June, Portugal's streets fill with colour and music for the Popular Saints: the traditions behind Santo António, São João and São Pedro.